Up at the crack of dawn to board the Rocky Mountaineer, the fabulous luxury train that will take us from Vancouver to Jasper. Xingxing's first train ride! Our baggage was whisked away, we were settled in big, soft seats surrounded by picture windows -- and the adventure began.
Actually, it didn't. There was some sort of delay, so we just sat there. Never mind. They served breakfast in the dining car, and what a breakfast! Eggs Benedict with all the trimmings, and there are few things (other than oysters and caviar) that I like better than Eggs Benedict! Xingxing licked hollandaise sauce off my fingers, and it didn't really matter that the train wasn't actually moving.
When we did finally get rolling, we soon left Vancouver behind. Then it was all rushing rivers (higher this year than they'd been for 10 years, according to our guide) and tall, virgin forests. No people. Mile after mile after mile, and no people. That was amazing. There is an awful lot of Canada, and most of it is uninhabited.
Xingxing slept all morning and woke up for lunch, which was another culinary extravaganza, accompanied by excellent Canadian wines. We saw lots of eagles, but no elk or bear. That didn't really surprise me. Why would any elk or bear want to hang out next to the railroad tracks in the middle of all this beautiful wilderness?
As the afternoon mellowed (assisted by more of that Canadian pinot) it became clear that we were going to be on the train for several more hours than planned, because the early delay had made us miss our "meets" which meant all the other trains had right of way over us. The staff -- bless their hearts! -- were worried about Xingxing needing to do what a dog needs to do. They thought he might be uncomfortable, so they stopped the whole train in the middle of nowhere and one of the guys took Xingxing out to lift a leg. I mean, how nice is that?
We finally reached Kamloops, where we were greeted quite ceremoniously by half a dozen real, live Canadian Mounted Police. It was like being in a movie. At Kamloops we spent the night in a sweet little hotel which we really didn't get to appreciate because we had to get back on the train first thing in the morning. However, I did manage to squeeze in a nice, long walk for Xingxing before we boarded. He was becoming very proficient at bounding up the steep steps, and was obviously enjoying the train.
Another fabulous breakfast in the dining car, and more great scenery. And then wine, and a gourmet lunch, and more wine. As we traveled east the scenery just kept getting better and better, and there was something quite mesmerizing about simply sitting there and watching the rivers and
forests go by. Just before we reached Jasper, the train passed so close to a gigantic waterfall that you could have reached out and touched it. And our arrival in Jasper -- surrounded with snow-capped mountains -- was beyond perfect. Xingxing and I took a little walk while everyone else checked in, and by the time we got to our room, we were both ready for dinner, and bed.
We had two days in Vancouver and as luck would have it, our hotel was within walking distance of the Sun Yat Sen Classical Chinese Garden, and Chinatown. (When I say walking distance, I mean walking distance for me) It would have been a bit far for Xingxing. So we took the stroller, and set off into the bright, blissfully cool Vancouver morning,
Although many cities have what they call "Chinese" gardens, this one is the only truly classical Chinese garden that exists outside of China. During the Ming Dynasty, scholars constructed these gardens as a refuge from worldly tribulations, exquisite, private retreats to soothe the soul and nourish the spirit.
It was magical. It was like being whisked away on a flying carpet to another country and another time. Somehow the Chinese craftsmen who had constructed the walkways and pavilions and peaceful, reflecting pools had managed to obliterate modern Vancouver -- we were in the middle of a city, but the city had vanished. We made our way over bridges and along corridors, each vista more breathtaking than the last. The garden was small -- most of these gardens are -- but gave the illusion of endless space.
I was particularly intrigued by the color of the water in the pond -- it was jade green. Outside of Suzhou, I'd never seen anything like it, Later I learned that the pond was lined with a special clay, brought all the way from China for the purpose. The amazing rocks had come from China, as well.
Another longish walk the next day brought us to Yaletown and the cute little ferry to Granville Island. There were several "gourmet" tours to Granville Island -- which is really just a very up-market meat, fish and vegetable market with a few souvenir stores thrown in for the tourists -- but I thought it would be fun to do it myself. Actually, the ferry ride was the best part of the whole thing. It was a beautiful, sunny morning and the sky and water sparkled. It was also Xingxing's first boat trip. He was interested, but unfazed.
We walked around the market and bought some fudge, and two bottles of some rather expensive Canadian red wine. There were quite a few fast food places, but nothing that looked like a "nice" restaurant -- and I was in the mood for a nice lunch at a nice restaurant.
So we took the ferry back to where we'd started, and headed for the Granville Street Mall. This was disappointing. The shops seemed to cater to back-packers, and there were no restaurants at all, nice or otherwise. By now, I was getting tired, and hungry, and wondering if there was some way I could teach Xingxing to push me in the stroller! We turned up Robson Street, towards the luxury hotels, and found ourselves outside Joe Fortes Restaurant.
The guy at the door was snippy about Xingxing and if I hadn't been so tired and so hungry, I'd have just kept walking. We were finally seated in a distant corner, and I admired the soaring ceilings and spectacular fittings while waiting for the menu. Joe Fortes is an older restaurant, and apparently very well-known and this was one of the most outstanding meals of the entire trip. I dined on Oysters Rockefeller, which you wouldn't think would be enough for lunch -- but these oysters were enormous. And delicious. The glass of Canadian merlot I ordered was so good I had a second glass, and then I thought What the heck? and finished off with a sinfully divine slice of Chocolate Love Cake. Ah, bliss!
Then back to the hotel for a postprandial (and much needed) nap.
Bringing your dog into Canada from the United States is easy. All you need is something in writing from your veterinarian verifying that your dog's rabies shots are up to date. Often, nobody even asks to see this bit of documentation. But you need to have it with you, just in case. And these days, you also need your American passport.
We did this trip last July. It was Xingxing's first big trip, as well as his first experience of an airplane, a train, a bus, a boat and a gondola. He was less than a year old, and I didn't know how he'd cope -- but there was only one way to find out.
We used a travel agency, Fresh Tracks Canada. They were fantastic. In fact, we're doing another trip with them, this year. Canada's service dog legislation is vague, and seems to only recognize Guide Dogs, so there was a fair bit of negotiating involved. These days, people tend not to use travel agents so much, preferring to make their own arrangements on the internet. However, we've discovered that when you're traveling outside the United States with a dog, there are a lot of advantages to using a travel agency, whether your dog is a service dog or not. Your travel agent already knows the hotel managers and the tour operators, and can often solve problems before they become problems. And of course, he or she has a vested interest in making sure your trip works.
Moreover, given advance notice, we've found that the management of many tour companies can be persuaded to allow a well-behaved dog to accompany his person on a tour. On the other hand, if you simply turn up with your dog, the person running the tour or driving the bus can flatly refuse to let you join the tour -- they're only employees, they often don't know the law (and sometimes, there isn't any law) and from their point of view, it's just safer to say, No.
Fresh Tracks Canada obtained letters from all the hotel managers and tour providers involved, specifically welcoming Xingxing. Getting it in writing is always a good idea, especially outside the United States. We had no problems at all, at any stage of our tour.
So the big day arrived, and we set out for the airport. Some airports are horrendous (I will never set foot in La Guardia again) but Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport is friendly, rather than frantic. We were graciously guided through security, with plenty of time to spare.
I fly First Class. I use my Frequent Flyer points. Being comfortable is important to me, at my age. I'd rather skimp on other things.
I always tell the airline in advance that I'll be traveling with a service dog. (You are not required by law to do this. But it makes life easier) However, you can't do this online. And if you book your tickets using a living, breathing customer services representative, they charge you extra. The way I get around this is to book the tickets online, and then call the airline to advise them I'm traveling with a service dog.
We're usually given the bulkhead seat, so there's plenty of room. On his maiden voyage, Xingxing curled up at my feet and slept all the way to Vancouver. I don't think he even realized he was on an airplane.
What is this? Xingxing sitting on a couch and without his vest? Isn't this breaking all the rules?
Not at Firesky, where all dogs are welcome and can go just about anywhere in the resort, except into the dining room. Firesky has a great chef, and one of the best Happy Hours in Scottsdale. And it's pretty. Actually, it's gorgeous. There's a pool with a waterfall, and and the tropically-planted grounds are a delight all year round.
There are few more pleasant ways to end a day than curled up on a couch on Firesky's patio, sipping a Pinot Noir and nibbling a half-price appetizer, all for less than $12.
I'm always surprised that more of Firesky's guests don't bring their dogs with them. Of course, traveling with a dog can be a hassle, especially if you're traveling by air. But for anyone doing a car trip and stopping in Scottsdale, Firesky is perfect. You've got over 100 restaurants within a mile, plus Fashion Square, plus Old Scottsdale. The rooms are lovely and the prices are amazingly reasonable.
Whenever we're traveling, I always try to stay at dog-friendly hotels even though technically, Xingxing can stay anywhere. But not all dog-friendly hotels are equal. Some of them put you in a room that reeks of cigarette smoke, which is not good. And some of them put you in their "disabled" room, which is worse -- and also quite insulting to people with disabilities, when you stop to think about it. Top end hotels tend to be very, very good where dogs are concerned. But they also tend to be ferociously expensive.
Firesky -- with its reasonable rates and tropical garden environment -- is perfect.
One of the reasons I decided to write this blog was to let people know about really good places to take their dogs -- whether they're service dogs or not. Firesky is one of those really good places.
I don't stay there, because I live directly across the street. But if you're ever in Scottsdale,
check it out. Especially during Happy Hour. If we're there, Xingxing will buy you a glass of wine.
A dog who helps his or her owner to cope with a disabling physical or mental condition is -- in the United States -- considered to be a service dog. Usually, this involves special training, and this training can be simple or complicated, depending upon what the service dog needs to be able to do. Of course, some dogs are "naturals". I have a diabetic friend whose dog always "tells him" when his glucose levels are wrong. The dog was never trained to do this. He just knows. But most dogs require training.
Who is allowed to train service dogs? Anyone, including the owner.
Do you have to pass a test? No. There are no official tests. Do you have to have a certificate? No. There are no official certificates. Do you have to register? No. There is no official registry. In fact, American service dogs aren't even required to have ID cards or to wear special vests.
So how do you know that a dog is "really" a service dog?
Service dogs are well-behaved. A service dog walks obediently alongside his owner. He doesn't jump or lunge or bark at other dogs. In restaurants or on public transportation, he sit quietly at his owner's feet or under the table and doesn't beg for food.
Most service dogs do wear identifying vests -- not because it's legally required, but because it makes life easier for everyone concerned if people realize the dog is a service dog. Xingxing wears a vest. Xingxing loves his vest. He knows it means that he's about to go someplace interesting.
Service dogs can go anywhere, unless they cause a disturbance. If a service dog is unruly, or barks or lunges or snaps or causes any difficulty whatsoever, that dog can -- and should -- be immediately removed from the premises ... and is probably not "really" a service dog, anyway.
So that's how you know.
It may sound like a very permissive system. And in some ways, I suppose it is. But it works pretty well for most of us, most of the time. And it's a lot easier and less expensive than a huge, government-run bureaucracy.
Now that we've got all that out of the way, I'm going to tell you about one of the most dog-friendly hotels in Arizona.
Here in the United States, a service dog is a dog who has been trained to assist his (or her) ill or disabled owner. Most people are familiar with Seeing Eye or Guide dogs, and hearing dogs. But there are lots of other kinds of service dogs. Some help with balance, and mobility. There are dogs who can predict seizures, and dogs who assist diabetics. There are blood pressure dogs. In addition to medical service dogs, there are also service dogs for emotional support, particularly for people suffering PTSD.
Under the Americans With Disabilities Act of 1996, all are considered service dogs.
Service dogs can go anywhere, including restaurants, hotels, museums, supermarkets, movie theaters -- any place that's open to the general public. This sometimes upsets people, either because they don't understand that service dogs do not necessarily have to be Guide dogs or because they just don't like dogs.
There is no formal, national registry for service dogs in the United States. Nor is there any official, certification process, no licenses, no ID cards. This also upsets some people, because they think "anyone can say their dog is a service dog."
In fact, it's not that easy. Service dogs have to be impeccably behaved. They can't bark at other dogs or jump up on people. They have to be perfectly house-trained. If a service dog creates any kind of disturbance whatsoever, the dog and its owner are legally required to leave the premises. So although small children can scream and yell and run around restaurants while their parents pretend not to notice, service dogs can't.
How does a dog get to be a service dog?
Catch up with us next time and find out!
Actually, it didn't. There was some sort of delay, so we just sat there. Never mind. They served breakfast in the dining car, and what a breakfast! Eggs Benedict with all the trimmings, and there are few things (other than oysters and caviar) that I like better than Eggs Benedict! Xingxing licked hollandaise sauce off my fingers, and it didn't really matter that the train wasn't actually moving.
Another fabulous breakfast in the dining car, and more great scenery. And then wine, and a gourmet lunch, and more wine. As we traveled east the scenery just kept getting better and better, and there was something quite mesmerizing about simply sitting there and watching the rivers and 
